Yurt Monkey

Squeezing the Lemon II has this in the wrong location. Low down on the south side of Green Slabs is a smooth concave brown face. The big chimney on the left side of this face is Monkey Business. On the right side of this face is Banana Pudding and Josh and Dave's Route. The arete bounding the right side of this face is the start of Yurt Monkey. In the overhead topo on page 52 in Squeezing the Lemmon II, Yurt Monkey is just right of #12, NOT where it is indicated by #14.

Start just right of the arete. Climb up to a bolt, step left around the arete, up a bit using several thin flakes, then back right to a ledge. I thought this was the crux section. Continue up the straightforward face to the anchors. At the last move I moved left to near the arete.

Nice enough route, but nothing special. Nowhere near as steep as it looks in the photo on page 42 of Squeezing the Lemmon II.

Approximately 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with chains. It's a long way between bolts 2 and 3 and between 3 and 4 with ground fall potential. I used a green Alien between 2 and 3 and a #2 Offset Friend between 3 and 4. Anything in that size range would work.