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Peak Mountain 3

Woody's Roofs

FA James Garrett, Dave Madera 18 Nov 1992
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch1:

Start in the right facing corner left of the choss/debris pile and climb to a ledge. A cool tower sits on the ledge to your left. Aid up the crack to an optional belay or continue higher. The crack widens the higher you go. Aid through a roof to the "real" belay. Pitch 1 and 2 are the gems of the route. A2, 150' Pitch 1/2 go mostly clean, if not totally clean.

Pitch 2:

Continue up the crack through a second roof to a boulder curiously wedged in the crack, then continue up the face, climb on to lower-angle terrain. Shuck and jive up a widening crack and belay at a good stance below a wider crack and chimney system. 150'

Pitch 3:

Grovel through the offwidth, chimney through the wide parts. Long runners and big gear are useful on this pitch. No one will judge you if you use a little "french free" on this pitch. 5.10+, 200'

Pitch 4:

Continue up the chimney and sucky off width mank to scrambling above. Watch for loose blocks on the top out. You pay for pitch 1/2 on pitches 3/4. Totally worth it.

Madera, as in Dave Madera, means "wood" in Spanish.

Descent:

Make three airy rappels down the Langdon Route on the Northwest Face

Location

Pick your way to the base of the tower and work your way to the North side. Woody's Roofs AKA Northeast Prow ascends a crack system on the NE prow. Start in the right-facing corner immediately left of a large choss/debris pile.

Protection

Two full sets of cams up to #4, one each #5, #6,,,do they make a 7,8,9 &10?? If you have big shiz, bring it. Two full sets of TCU's, 1 set of nuts. A selection of small pins, knife blades, beaks, etc. Ball Nuts and small trickery useful on pitch 1/2. Two 60M ropes.


Routes in Bottleneck Peak