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Description
Layback on an easy right-trending flake for 15 ft. to gain easier climbing and a good stance. Work through a slightly tougher off-width to gain a good handcrack for 15 ft. of solid jams. At a good stance the crack opens up to an off-width with a bulge at the top (crux). Place a not-so-inspiring cam (#2-#4 camalot range) at the bottom of the bulge and work through tough/awkward and exposed moves to gain the belay ledge. Two stainless glue-ins up and to the left make the anchor. There is an optional #2 camalot for a third piece.
Location
When on the road driving to the parking area you can see the route as a dark shadow/dihedral trending right to the saddle at the tallest part of the Western Battleship formation. When walking the bluff it is the first and tallest clean crack you come to. From the bottom it trends right and appears slightly low-angle.
Protection
Doubles of #2, #3, and #4 camalots as well as a #3.5 or equivalent.
Routes in Western Battleship
- 1Mike's V-Card5.8Tr · Trad