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MapDescription
This route was named after the famous climb in Yosemite. (1) Up an easy chimney. (2) Work up toward a seam in a left-facing corner. Work through the crux corner (fixed Leeper Z) to gain a squeeze chimney and the ledge with a large tree. Move the belay to the right end of the ledge. (3) Climb the flared chimney above past two bolts (5.8), through the overhang and belay on the ledge above. (4) The final easy pitch works its way through the caprock.
Location
About 8.1 miles past the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook turnoff are the largest walls in the Malpais. 1096 is the prominent flared chimney on the west face. The route starts below the left end of a large ledge with a tree at the chimney's base.
Protection
Standard rack to 5". Take kneepads!
Routes in El Malpais
- 1010965.11b/cTrad