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Peak Mountain 3

Blue Angel

FA Mike Roth, Paul Sullivan 1989
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a short, fun sport line that I found on my way out of Endless, headed toward the Cirque Ladders. It climbs dead vertical rock with a few thin moves with bad feet, interspersed with a couple good ledge holds to recover. Nothing special, but not terrible either. I was looking for something short and sweet at the end of the day to make sure I got my fill, and this short route fit the bill. It starts with sub 5.10 climbing to the first bolt for the first ten feet or so. After you clip the first bolt and get established on the face, the holds start getting smaller. The crux is just after the second bolt. There is also a thin move or two that takes you to the one bolt anchor.

Location

It's very easy to pass this nondescript line, which is why I did. I was looking specifically for it, so I was able to go back and locate it, but if you're not looking for it, odds are you won't find it. If you're moving in the direction from the Undeserved Area to Mungolian Wall and you get to the obvious dagger stalactite jutting out of the ground, you've gone too far. Look for a high roof before the stalactite. There is a short section of seemingly blank wall just before that roof. Blue Angel is the bolted route on that short wall. Just to the right of Blue Angel is a short finger crack called Blind Sight.

Protection

5 quickdraws: 4 bolts to a 1 bolt anchor. The hanger on the anchor bolt is a bit rusty, but the bolt is solid.