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Peak Mountain 3

Stump the Stars

FA Steve Hong
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UPDATED 

Description

Despite it being short with slightly dirty rock, I believe this has got to be one of the most fun crack climbs around. Though, to be sure, I haven't done that many of the local crack climbs harder than 11a. If more people climbed it, the rock would clean up.

Originally, I thought this was stout for the grade. But, rethinking it, the rating probably is spot on compared to routes like Coyne Crack and S-Crack's third pitch crack. The difference, which is what makes this route awesome, is that it is more sequential than the aforementioned; it is not just a "plug and chug", "grin and bear it" crack.

From the base, start up the right crack - tips and few fingers on a slightly less-than-vertical wall. About 20 feet up, make the transition into the left crack and climb more tips/tight fingers to overhanging wall, pull 10 foot overhanging wall via thin hands, and continue to bolted anchors.

Location

Use approach info to reach the wall on the area page. Once you reach the first wall you come to hiking up the drainage, hike directly east following the wall. Right before you are about to drop down into the first drainage you come to, walk uphill for 50 feet. The route is located on the wall you are walking along, on the left margin of the wall. It is slightly hidden by a large pine tree. Just look for the overhanging thin hands splitter.

Protection

A set of nuts, TCU's, and cams to 2 inches; heavier on the purple and blue TCU's and .75 Camalots.

Also, the webbing strung through the bolts is pretty faded. A future party may want to replace it.


Routes in Perla's Ridge and Environs