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Peak Mountain 3

Iron Maiden

FA Paul Borne et al.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is located in the back of a narrow canyon on the overhanging southeast face of the Snickers formation.

The first pitch (11+) begins on a block at the top of a short chimney. Clip a bolt and climb into a dihedral. Technical stemming and gastons lead past three more bolts to a short discontinuous crack. Clip one more bolt and move right using a diagonal hand rail to a small platform. Moves on loose rock above the platform lead to a belay ledge.

The sustained and short second pitch (11+) continues past four bolts adjacent to a shallow, flared crack on grainy but solid rock.

This climb would be a classic if the rock was consistently solid.

Protection

Quickdraws for five bolts and small TCU's (#1 - #3) on the first pitch. Quickdraws for four bolts on the second pitch. Bolted anchors are at the top of each pitch. Two rappels to the bottom with one rope.