Bareknuckle Dirt Tango

"Bareknuckle Dirt Tango 5.9++/5.11+" starts by jamming behind a partially detached flake in a crack (jams fine but gear probably wouldn't hold a good fall) to get into the left facing flare. First with deep handjams, then jamming and kneebarring up a very clean but sustained .75 flare above, the route works its way toward a good rest under an intimidating roof.

The roof is the crux, protected by a #5 below as you make tricky exit moves with a mix of burly handjams, offwidth moves and face holds to exit and continue up the sassy handcrack above. Two more large pods above, one filled with a large block, provide rest in the upper portion of the route. Tape or jammies might be a good idea for some flaring jams and calcite ridges but the original style was, you guessed it, bareknuckle (although at the expense of some skin).

Anchors are left of an alcove above the pods. Two ropes are necessary as an 80m rope does not reach the ground on rappel (45m).

Continue past the far right side of the wall doing your best to stay high and follow the faint makings of a path. Pass the alcove with a (likely dry) seep and waterfall and continue along the base of the east-facing back wall. Continue past Future Starts Slow and into a lighter colored alcove with two obvious lines on left and right - a massive roof on lighter colored rock above a broken corner at left (still awaiting an ascent) and an obvious left-trending crack at right (the goods).

Quadruple rack from .5-3, 4, 5 and some slings and two ropes. Bolted rappel anchor left of an alcove at 45m