- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is the route that climbs the prow left of
Teenage Wristband
, and right of the popular route formerly known as Box Lunch (now called [something] different in the Knapp guide).
This route is essentially a contrived one-move wonder, involving a height-dependent campus move off of a one-digit two finger pocket to a drilled (or enhanced) mono. This section, at the 3rd bolt, is easily bypassed by stemming into the corner to the right.
I was tempted to give this route the coveted BOMB rating, but the nice upper section redeems this route to one-star caliber. Bypassing the crux by stemming into the corner yields a nice 11+ climb.
The new Knapp guidebook gives this the dubious rating of 12c and awards it 4-stars. My guess is that Fred has not done the route, judging by his quality and difficulty assessment. Van Horn rates it 5.12c/13b due to its height-dependent nature, which is closer to reality. Personally I think it's minimally a V5/6 crux, even with a long wingspan.
Protection
7 or 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Routes in The Dark Side
- 19Kashmere5.12+Sport