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Peak Mountain 3

Perfect Hands All the Way

FA Ben Lepesant , Dave Brown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start up the Shadows route, continue up the crack after the offwidth instead of going left. belay under a squeeze chimney. Climb up the squeeze chimney, then a thin hands and off fingers crack trough a sandy pot until the crack gets very thin. A hard face move leads up to a ledge.(5.11+) Rotten rock here, climb up a little to place very good pro, nr 4 cam, and down a little to a handtraverse on small crimps to the right.(5.10+) No good pro in a sandy seem, quite tricky move up(5.11-R), into the next seem. Crucial red C3, bad and in very soft rock. 1 pt of aid, probably goes free too at 5.12, but really soft rock.

Locking off the C3 permits to place a decent .4 cam, another point of aid and you can crawl onto a ledge on the south face. Pull some rope and climb up to the summit (5.7).

The first part may have been climbed before.

Location

West Face of NSS

Protection

Camalots 0.4 - 4 3 each .4-2 1 each 3 and 4

green&yellow alien, red C3

lots of long slings, or better 2 ropes

small nuts