Playing with Matches

A must-do route at Shuteye. Extremely unique and varied. Start with a pillar and get cracks, two roofs, plenty of knobs and some runnel.

P1 5.9 - 55m

Start is on the 'pillar' of rock... go under the roof on the right side of the pillar and out and up the outside face of the pillar (not hard, so if it's hard, you're doing it wrong). From the top of the pillar, you lean over to the main wall and clip a bolt.

Work up the face, leaning left from the pillar but keeping right of the gully. Pull a small roof and then follow a crack to bolt anchors under the larger roof.

P2 - 5.9 - 45m

Crux is the roof overhead with horns for protection. Climb runnel to a crack leading to the top ledge. Bolt anchor at the edge.

On or under 'pillar'.

2-3 bolts, gear to 4", slings for the many knobs. Need two ropes to rap route.