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Peak Mountain 3

Last Grapes

FA Dave Evans and Tom Beck,1980
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UPDATED 

Description

A fun single pitch fingercrack, this thing would be as popular as P1 of

Dave's Deviation

if it was in a more accessible area. The book gives it 5.9, but I think that’s a bit soft compared to climbs in the area. Mostly good jams, a little thin at the top but you have the dihedral to work with at that point.

Start on a face between

My Pink Half of the Drainpipe

and a right-facing dihedral on your left, where a couple of face moves leads to an obvious finger/hand crack with a bush in it 25 feet up. There’s a blocky section just past this with one sort of loose block, but it’s easy climbing. The crack continues up, thinning towards the top where it merges with the dihedral. A two bolt anchor/rap station is on the left.

Location

Located on the Upper Northeast Buttress, which may not be easy to locate if you’re not familiar with the area. From

El Whampo

continue scrambling up and left around blocky ledges until you find a steep gully/chimney. You may want to rope up here, there’s some awkward moves getting up.

Once the gully levels out you should see obvious routes to your right, the roof of

My Pink Half of the Drainpipe

right above you. Last Grapes starts between My Pink Half and a right-facing dihedral on your left.

Protection

Medium to small gear, there’s placements to 2” but you can get away with smaller.