Free Lunch

This route is super classic, some bolted face, long free climbing, some loose junk, a sweet finish and big ledges. Start as for Teddy Bear's picnic. P1 - move up the huecos and step up into a shallow right-facing corner and then move up and left past a few bolts (10a) on small knobs and belay in a corner. P2 - climb up and left over a small pinnacle and step down left to a nice ledge (this is a little funky but straight-forward and not hard). P3 - get your head on and move up, passing on the left side of a huge hollow-sounding flake and into the overhanging section, move right past this (5.9) to belay on a small ledge. P4 - jam up right in the clean, solid crack for the money pitch of the route (5.8), then follow the chimney to a big ledge. P5 - two options a) climb straight up the face past bolts and join the wide crack at about mid-pitch b) get right into the big stuff and grunt your way through (both 5.9)

Walk off the back side. Beware there is a HUGE white owl living in the top of the chimney next to the P4 belay. If you choose to do the wide start to P5 you'll probably make friend or foe with this spooky avian creature! His pellets are all over the P4 chimney and you could mistake them for bear crap or some other large carnivore...sweet!

Gear - singles of smaller stuff a few doubles in hand to fist size.