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Peak Mountain 3

Westward Ho

FA Dave Whitelaw, Chris Greyell, Mark Hanna 2001
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Westward Ho makes great use of some the cleanest white granite at Darrington. It provides a direct line of sustained friction and scoops that will test any climber that fancies themself as solid on 5.9 slab. The first four quality pitches are bolt-protected with modern hardware and fixed anchors. Definitely not sport bolted, come prepared for thin moves 10-15' above bolts.

The route is direct and obvious, with pitch ratings of 5.9+, 5.8, 5.9 and 5.9. From the top of P4 most rappel, but you can continue to the summit via four additional pitches of adventure climbing (slab, bushes, dirty corners) protected by gear. A more detailed description and topo are available in

Weekend Rock-Washington

, by David Whitelaw, who helped establish the route.

Descend the route via double-rope rappels.

Location

Westward Ho is located immediately south/right of the Blueberry Buttress (see photo), so requires the same character-building Granite Sidewalk approach. From the base of the buttress, move right into the shallow drainage. Scramble up the blocky gully (class 4) to a small perch with a bolt for the initial belay.

Protection

Bolts (3/8”) typically spaced 20-40' apart (max of 8 per pitch). Small cams are needed for overlaps on pitch 4. A medium rack of cams and nuts is needed to continue beyond.

Strongly recommend helmets, because the route is exposed to minor rockfall. If there is a party above on Blueberry Buttress, any dislodged rocks will be headed your way.