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Peak Mountain 3

Moments in Peace

FA p1 & 2: Patrick Purcell & Edek Falkowski; FA p3 on TR: Patrick Purcell; FFA p3: Jon Clark and Edek Falkowski
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Description

The third pitch is outstanding. You will have to navigate a section of loose rock on pitch 2 to reach it.P1-Climb up, clip the bolt, then move right into a slot. Stem up the slot (thin pro) and exit right to a bolted belay. 5.9 PGP2-There is a section of poor rock in the corner, so it's best to treat this pitch as R despite plenty of gear options. Undercling a flake out left to a stance. Climb a left facing corner (careful, loose) and eventually move left to better rock and another stance (optional belay). Clip a bolt out right then climb up to a comfortable belay ledge. 5.10a PG/RP3-From the belay move left and mantle to a stance beneath the crack. Jam tips and layback to a good hold. Continue up the sustained crack to an anchor; steep, pumpy, and awesome.Rap with a single 70m rope.

Location

Upon reaching the Buttress, walk uphill and left to a clearing 100 feet below the base of a large gully. Look for a bolt 8 feet up to the left of a shallow, left facing corner.

Protection

Gear to 2.5" with an emphasis on tips and finger sized cams


Routes in Ausable Buttress


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    Moments in Peace
    5.12a
    Trad