- Edit (TBD)
Description
First off, this is not a route to do on the weekend. Plenty of death javalins up top to knock onto to the crowds below, and the route utilizes the anchors of 7 separate climbs. It's a lot of space to take up at Washingtons most used crag, so don't be THAT group.
The route begins on top of the plateau, where the regular traverse ends. There is a massive horn to sling and rap from here, or you can down-climb the gully skiers left of the horn. Plenty of solid stuff in the gully to feel secure, but check your holds.
From the base of the gully you can make your way over the many smaller basalt bits to Satan's Pillar for the "Out and Back" pitch. It's a pretty obvious formation in the group because it is completely detached from the series of columns, and on the north side. Here there is a set of bolts and chains on top of the ridge line that give great protection to start the pitch.
P1: Down-climb into the gap, clipping hangers on two anchors (one each side of the gap) and sling the long developers bolt with washers on it. The very top of Satan's pillar has no established gear, so you'll need to down/ up climb both ways, and do the massive stem across the gap each time. Jugs are a plenty here, but it's some "tall people movement', so be warned.
P2: Off the same anchor, you can start to make your way along the proper column line. Keep an eye out for chains, as you'll be clipping as many as you can to keep this section rated R. When you get to the columns that create the gap, there are two developer bolts here (no chains) that will be your belay anchor.
Gap Transition: From the belay anchor, you can turn around and sling the entire top of the column for a short rappel. It takes about 30ft of material, and I have left webbing and a (hardware store) quick link up there for others (placed 3/3/21). Rig the rappel from the platform where your belay anchor is and when ready, swing around the the webbing into the gap and begin your rappel. In just a couple of feet, you can lean backwards, clip the anchors on the opposing side, and lower yourself into a hanging belay at the top of "Fraggled Pickles".
P3: The crux. Move left off of the hanging belay on small holds, and clip a bolt and anchor for the route “Medicine Man” before making your way to the top. Free, I believe these moves go at 5.9 (Would love another opinion). I completed it at 5.6 A0. On top you can plug your #1 cam, and make your way to a set of anchors right below the summit of the formation. I find it is best to unrope from these anchors, and solo over the top before down-climbing to the last remaining pillars.
P4/5: At the end of the formation there are two pillars to nab. One is an easy 5.4 jug romp. The other takes a few weird moves around a corner to a face with an anchor ledge, and a few moves above the anchors to the top. From this ledge you can either rappel to the ground, or for completionists, there is a final little lump nearest to the road that you could swing to on your way down (using the right side chains). I chose to solo up the gap between these last two columns and it went at a dirty 5.5.
Shout out to Butterfly and Defecto who sent and uploaded the regular traverse. This route lit a little fire under me, and I had a blast working on the reverse. Thanks for having the vision, and for sharing it with the community.
Protection
4 Alpine Draws, Couple of double length sling draws, BD #1 Cam (or equivalent), 30ft of webbing or perlon, and your regular multi-pitch kit.
Routes in The South Side
- 26The Feathers Reverse Traverse5.9Trad