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MapDescription
Go straight up the dihedral. Using the outer holds lessens the rating a tad from what's in the Epeldi book.
Climbing it as a true crack definitely puts it at 5.8. Nice double finger length to hand jams at the top of the crack.
Topping out at the chains isn't so obvious, but the hand holds are there.
Location
Start to ten feet left of Temporary Insanity; five feet right of three small staircase blocks.
Protection
Nuts to small cams.
Finish on the chains of Dirty Luck
Routes in East Car Body Canyon
- 4The Cleaning Lady5.7Trad