The Ring

This is the One Route to Rule Them All!! A fantastic journey through difficult but stunningly good rock. A hard boulder problem down low leads to technical and enduring face climbing, and to a "thank god" stance (avoiding the stance, and climbing straight through, makes the route a little more sustained, and quality). Head up the steep arete, and exit the arete to good holds with one last thuggish move to the anchor.A true Diablo Canyon sport climbing gem, this route is the reason the Mordor crag exists. Keith and I bolted this obvious, stunning line around 2015 but thought it was too hard and we waited til we were ready to commit a whole season to training for sending it. In the mean time, we realized we were going to need some warmup routes so we started bolting other lines nearby, and they just turned out so good we kind of got distracted from the main objective (procrastination as well??). Enter winter 2019/2020, we were ready to get it done. Realizing that we could escape to a rest out right after the first two cruxes brought the grade down to reasonable, and the prospect of us sending became rather achievable.

The clean face on the main left wall of Middle Earth sector of Mordor. Step up on easy slabs to reacy a good finger slot that you can easily clip the first bolt. Theen step left and mantle up to a giant mail slot from which you can clip the 2nd and 3rd bolt ( fixed chain at 3rd bolt).

7 bolts, at least one with fixed chain draw.