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Peak Mountain 3

Brass Monkey

FA Unknown; Tony Calderone and Peter Lenz climbed it on 6/16/18
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a mostly gear protected line just to the right of “Too Much Fun,” which preceded "Brass Monkey," by many years.

It joins “Too Much Fun” on the final slab; you will clip the last few bolts , and use the anchor for “Too Much Fun.”

  1. You will need two ropes for the  descent  from the Too Much Fun anchor.

Brass nuts or other micronuts are highly recommended to protect the crux.

Directly to the climbers right of Too Much Fun, you will see a ramp trending rightward, below a light colored face. Ascend this ramp easily, and gain the obvious crack, which initially protects well. Ascend to where the crack narrows down to finger size, and the feet become problematic. This is the crux, and it protects reasonably with brass nuts. Persevere through a few feet of thin hands and feet, and the crack opens again to hand size, the angle eases, and footholds reappear. Avoid temptation to stay in the crack, which opens to chimney size.

Ascend the final slab and clip the last few bolts of “Too Much Fun,” to the anchor.

Location

This route is directly to climbers right of “Too Much Fun.”

Protection

Standard rack, minimum is singles to #4 cam. BRING BRASS MICRONUTS (or equivalent) to protect the crux.