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Peak Mountain 3

Surprise

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Description

A Knifefink-esque problem, this route will have you wondering what broke on it from the very bottom. The answer to that is, inevitably, your will. Start standing using two side-by-side sidepulls and start guessing about how you want to hold them and where you want your feet to be. Make a move up through a horizontal that just isn’t quite as good as you want it to be and then after the first 2 moves the route gets significantly easier as you sink your hand into the giant pit of a sidepull above the horizontal. Make a move up to the protruding jug in the giant divot in the rock, find something to hold onto on your right and sink your left hand into the gigantic undercling pocket. Top out just left of the arete. Personally I think there are easier V5’s in the forest (I’m looking at you Orange Blossom Special and Full Frontal Assault) but this is one to put that stuck up gym rat team kid on when they finally decide to come outside for the first time.

Spoilers: The Surprise is disappointment.

This route is #2 on Boulder 1 in the Entrance Boulders in the Brayack and Keenan Falcon guidebook.

Location

Start is on the twin sidepull pockets 3 feet left of the right Arete of Boulder 1.

Protection

High ball. Bring a pad.