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Peak Mountain 3

Miltrules

FA Drew Spaulding, Clint Casey, 2016
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Disregard the description in the “new boulder canyon guidebook”. This route is not 5.10a. Climbing left of the 2 bolt upper crux is where “Ganesha Corner” climbs. Also, do not start the pitch left of the bolts in the right facing dihedral(Ganesha Corner),,, Miltrules starts up the left side of the crack that starts

Hair Trigger

. Step out left to clip the 2 bolt lower crux (10b). Keeping your chest centered on the bolts is where the "rules" part of the name comes in. Power though the steep roof above starting on the right side of the 2 bolt crux (11a). From the no hands stance, climb straight up through the left side of the small roof (9+) and into the groove-like dihedral above. Trend up and leftward to the

Day Tripper

chains for the descent.

Location

Start up the at the crack of

Hair Trigger

.

Protection

4 bolts and gear to 2" protect this wild pitch! It has a 2-bolt chained anchor.