We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Weenis Route

FA Mark Rolofson and Bob D'Antonio, 1983
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Follow the line of three pins and then over the small roof/bulge to the top of the west fin of Three Graces. The 5.11a crux can be avoided by lassoing the 2nd pin with a sling and staying to the left (5.10). Tying the pin off short may be a good idea anyway: it sticks out a fair amount from the rock, and the ring is rusted solid at a cross-loaded angle. Pulling the bulge direct felt 5.11a-ish, moving left and mantling into the large hueco is 5.10.

Since this route is rarely climbed, expect dirty and crumbly holds. It is a bold and scary route.

Location

Follow the obvious 3 pins on the west face of Three Graces. There are no anchors at the top of this climb. (Rolofson's guide mentions a large horn that can be used as an anchor, but I couldn't find one. There is a bulge up top that could perhaps be slung with 15-20 feet of webbing, but you'd have to leave it behind to rap down, which is a no-no at GotG.)

Finish on the 5.2

The Window

to a 2 bolt/2 pin anchor with chains at the top of the formation and rap down either side (use a 60m rope for the west side). Weenis is very difficult to clean on rappel.

Protection

3 old pins, no anchor. Small cams might offer pro under the small roof, but that would be redundant to the 3rd pin. If you finish on

The Window

, some small cams and a set of nuts might come in handy if you don't want 60 feet of runout to the top (5.2 X).


Routes in Three Graces