The House of Yes

Steep and powerful. Mentally, physically and emotionally stimulating. This route though not particularly sustained packs in such an excellent sequence of moves into its crux section that is it bound to be a Russell favorite for those looking for a route to test their skill and nerve on. You must start by climbing No Time for Love 5.8 to its anchor. This section is not particularly rad but It is well worth climbing to get to the business. Step right at NTFL's anchor onto a comfy ledge. Have a seat, compose yourself, pre clip the first two draws if you like. When it's time to launch climb up onto the peak just above NTFL's anchor. From the time your feet leave the peak until you are standing above the steeps it is 100% ON! Bear hugs and strenuous crack moves combine to make a memorable dance-battle. Be cautious making the 3rd clip. I think perhaps a long draw and a normal draw could be useful together here. Do not pull up rope if you are sketching as the slab comes up fast if you blow the clip. It is easy enough to dog through until you have it dialed. The hard climbing stops as abruptly as it starts. The last 2 bolts are fun 5.10 climbing. Great route with some wild climbing. Oh, the grade. I don't know. It took me about 5-6 days of effort to climb it. Seems hard. Climb it and let me know. 

Find the bolted slab below the right end of the big right angling roof. This is No Time for Love. Climb that route to its anchor and continue straight up the steep wall along the arete and crack for this route. 

11 bolts to lower off (from the ground) that's 6 on No Time for Love and 5 on The House of Yes proper.