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Peak Mountain 3

(B) A Hint of Squirrel

FA JMw, JFx 9/2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb easy ramp to enter crack system. Follow through bulge then up toward roof. Where the crack ends briefly you can place a high piece then step down and left to ramp that heads back up to roof. Layback and undercling out around roof (watch for loose block) and up to large ledge. If you’ve runnered the roof well you can finish up the final, stiff, wide crack to a big ledge with trees and belay. Otherwise, set up a belay on the lower ledge and make it 2 pitches. (110’ total)

Descent: Squeeze through chimney to gully in back and hike down left to base.,

Location

After you hike around the base of the first (westernmost) buttress, continue up along its east face, Riddler Wall, until you’re almost to where you can turn right around the corner. Look for a crack system that runs from the base to the top, passing a large roof halfway. Walk in on ledge from the left to gain a slanting ramp.

Protection

A good selection of gear.