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Peak Mountain 3

Snuggles to Fall Crack

FA Snuggles FA: Mike Dudley & Claudia Pinello ('60s) - Fall Crack FA: Steve Cheyney ('60s)
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Description

This route is located on the east face of the south end of North Gateway Rock. Scramble 40 feet up steps and large holds to a large ledge below an obtuse, right-facing corner with a couple pins (Snuggles). Most parties rope up here.

Snuggles: Climb the nice hand crack that arches out right towards its top past a couple pins to a large ledge with two pins. Gear from 3/4" to 2". (5.8 - 50 feet).

Fall Crack: Continue up the off-width off the left side of the ledge for about 10 feet to a piton on the right wall. (An old #4.5 Camalot might be useful here, depending on your off-width skills. I used an old #4 Camalot to protect the moves off the ledge, but it was fairly tipped out and useless). Continue with another 10 feet of wide/squeeze climbing, make an airy move out of the wideness, then continue up easier ground to a 2-pin anchor with rap rings.

This is a nice climb with good exposure and a nice belay station. Many parties also climb the left facing corner off the right side of the ledge above Snuggles (5.9+?). My length estimates are approximate, so don't assume you can use one rope and rappel from the top of Fall Crack to the anchor on Snuggles. If you do this, at least make sure you're using a 60m rope, and bring webbbing and rap rings to leave on Snuggles, which is worth top-roping. I recommend just climbing Snuggles and Fall Crack as one nice pitch, and use 2-ropes to descend. If this climb hasn't been done recently, it will be sandy, especially after some rain, but what Garden climb isn't? My FA info was taken from Bob D's guide.

Protection

Standard rack up to 5". About 4 or 5 ring angle pitons on route.