Security Risk

Locate the major crack system more or less in the middle of the crag. This crack system starts about 40' off the ground, and the first problem is getting to it. The standard start shown in Rossiter is difficult (10d) and hard to protect, somewhat out of character with the fun and well protected nature of the rest of the route. I recommend avoiding it.

P1. The easiest start is a 5.7 crack which is a few feet right of the line of the upper chimney. Climb this short pitch to a nice ledge at the base of the upper crack system, or continue and do the route as one long pitch. The original start is farther left and follows a left-facing overhanging dihedral in an alcove. A third start is located a few right of the 5.7 crack. Climb a shallow, left facing corner to a roof, step right (crux) and then straight up to the belay. This

The route climbs the crack system right of the tree on the left. All three starts are visible. The shadowed big left facing corner on the left is the original 10c start. The first crack/shallow right facing corner right of that is the 5.7 (++) start. The shallow left facing corner right of that is the 10a start. Men are From Mars, a short 11b sport route, climbs into the shadowed left facing corner at the top center of the photo.

shows all three starts.

P2: Launch forth straight up the double cracks. You will find perfect cracks and some wild overhanging moves. This 120' pitch is mostly stemming and hand jamming, and ends near the top of the crag. Scramble up and then descend west between Upper and Lower Security Risk.

Standard rack to 3.5".