Io

Start in the huge, left-facing dihedral at the North end of the Headstone.

P1 (90 feet) runs up on 5.11/5.10 climbing over a system of rounded ledges.

P2 (90 feet) chases toward the top on similar climbing.

Compared to many things on Devil's Head, this route will seem run-out (7-8 draws per pitch), but the feet are good, and all of the clips are from stances, so just stay in tune and ride it up. The rock is very sound, and the moves enjoyable. I thought it was fun. It keeps the shade and can be the only thing climable on the Headstone on a hot day.

QDs only. This two pitch route needs only 10 draws and a 60m rope. There are double bolt anchors at the top of each pitch.