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Peak Mountain 3

Ellingwood Couloir

FA Robert Ellingwood 1923
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The Ellingwood Couloir was the FA route for the Middle Teton. When in condition it makes for a good ski mountaineering line or steep snow climb. In the summer the couloir is laden with wet kitty litter slabs, and rock fall; this can make accessing the Buckingham Buttress a bit tricky.

From the TH to the summit is about 6,000ft, with 2,000ft of climbing. Take the south fork of Garnet Canyon to reach the south side of the Middle Teton. Ascend up the couloir with snow up to 45deg, you join the Middlle Glacier route and continue up steep snow and 5.5 rock. The easeast descent is the SW Couloir.

Protection

Light rock rack, crampons and a ice axe.