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Peak Mountain 3

Shipoopi!

FA Steve Schnieder
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a great route that offers awesome, well-bolted knob climbing, some fun roof-pulling, and a great view of the Bachar-Yerian. All anchors are bolted.

P1: 5.11a

Start in the plant filled dihedral and climb out right following the blocky dike band (first bolt in the middle) until reaching the small the roof. Pull the roof where there is an obvious jug/point and a possible fixed nut. Continue up and right on some slabby face knobs to the anchor. (4 Bolts, Smallish gear below roof)

P2: 5.11d

This is the money pitch. Sustained, thin knob climbing that wanders up and around a straight line of bolts. The crux comes at the top. (11 Bolts)

P3/4: 5.10d /5.12a

It is possible to link these pitches since the fourth is about 15ft long. The anchors at the top of the 4th are questionable. Begin the 3rd with with the crux right off the belay (4 Bolts). On the 4th, pull the roof via a lond reach to a jug. Continue straight up through crimpy seams (2 Bolts).

Location

Climbs up brown wall left of obvious black streak containing the B-Y.

Climb up giant slab ramp past the B-Y to top ledge. Start climb in dihedral. Rap the route (P4 bolts are questionable)

Protection

Many Draws. Gear up to 1.5" for first pitch.