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Peak Mountain 3

When the Levee Breaks

FA Mike Schneiter, Scott Nykerk, and Mark Regier
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

When the Levee Breaks climbs the gray streak in between

Supre Guide

and the

Cooch

Cave.

Climb through a horizontal break at the start with a long reach and lock off at the second bolt. Above the second bolt, you can escape right to a dirty crack or stay on the steeper face with a series of pockets and more devious sequences before the difficulty eases around the fourth bolt. Climb through an easier section before the route steepens towards the top. At the second to last bolt, use a long draw or sling and then climb up and right onto the face proper, clipping the last bolt in a section of featured, sharp limestone below the anchor.

I hesitate to post this route so soon as it still deserves some good cleaning, brushing,

etc

. With some traffic, this route should clean up into a nice mid-5.10 or easier. I post it to answer any question about what it might be and to encourage anyone who wants to help do the climbing community a favor and put some traffic in on it and help clean it up. We'll be out there some more to get it cleaned up.

Location

Located to the right of the Ruckman Cave proper, this route climbs a gray streak 150+ feet to the left of

Supre Guide

. It is best approached by parking at the Ruckman Cave and hiking up the road past the spot where the creek goes under the road. A faint climbers' trail (not the Koper Trail) goes up the hilll along the wall and leads to

Supre Guide

. Alternatively, you can also easily park at the campground and hike down canyon to this area. Look for the glue-in bolts.

Protection

9 glue-in bolts and the anchor.