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Peak Mountain 3

SC Face Area

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Description

In the newish white guidebook, page 51, is a route line drawn straight up for this route area. Granted, the word “area” implies that you can choose a variety of possible routes. However, I think that assuming you can climb near this line at 5.6, or with good protection, would be a mistake. That’s why I’m going to the trouble of posting this. The most obvious route is the one I describe below.

Location

About 10 feet left of

SCwIC

and at the base of the line drawn in the guidebook, I found some lichened features to climb. Placing good pro that I trusted to keep me off of the deck wasn’t easy. I removed a black Metolius from a shallow placement, so I could use that for a shallow, lichened sidepull and made a committing step up (crux). Because continuing straight up had no pro and looked even harder, I angled gradually left, eventually reaching a good crack in fine-grained reddish rock. The crack was filled with shrubbery, which I yanked out, so I could place pro (#4, then smaller) and jams. I continued straight up to the big ledge and belayed.

Protection

Stoppers and cams through #4. I also placed Tricams.