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Honestly, if it was one or the other it would be better but this climb is two very different personalities: in your face, powerful sport climbing immediately followed by pleasurable, mellow 5.9 trad. Both parts are plenty fun but it does lack consistency which detracts.
Work up the super easy arete to a stance. Clip the high bolt and work through a powerful crux to gain a short section of hard laybacking. Pull up to a no-hands stance below a hand crack. From here, enjoy 60 feet of fun moderate crack climbing to a massive chimney and a wild and exposed finish to a bolted anchor at the lip.
Location
5 feet right of Let The Wild Rumpus Start at the toe of the arete. 25 feet left of the massive boulder below the roof.
Protection
4 bolts, lots of gear up to .75
Routes in Eagle Falls
- 20Reverse Kill5.12bTrad