- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a pretty fun route that takes you near the top of the Grail Wall. According to the book, the first pitch is the crux at 5.11d and it’s probably the best pitch of the route. It sees less traffic above this pitch for sure. There is definitely some loose rock up high, so keep this in mind if you choose to do this route on a busy day with lots of parties below you.
P1 (5.11d): A fun, steep pitch up edges. 11 bolts, 100’
P2 (5.11b): I felt this was a sandbag. It’s tough off the belay but the crux comes just after a mantle move when you have to traverse right past 2 bolts to the anchor. 9 bolts, 80’.
P3 (5.11b): This pitch is pretty straightforward and a bit shorter than the others. 7 bolts, 70’
P4 (5.11b): Another long pitch that starts out vertical. The crux of the pitch is passing a bulge. Aftwards it turns to a thoughtful slab for a few moves. Be mindful of a huge, undercut block just left of the bolt line on this pitch. It’s probably solid, but we didn’t pull on it to find out.
Rappel the route with a single 60m rope. On the last rappel, it’s easier to go the Divine Vessel anchors if it’s open.
Location
It’s near the middle of The Grail section of rock. It’s one route to the left of Divine Vessel, which can be found with “DV” outlined in chalk at the base of the route (as of March ‘19). DV also has one perma-draw 2/3 of the way up that is pretty easy to spot.
Protection
14 draws + anchor gear
Routes in The Grail
- 36Felicity5.11cSport