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Peak Mountain 3

Retrospective

FA Mikey Schaefer and Nils Davis '05
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Route was established ground-up during the summer of '05. This is definitely an old school style meadows route. The bolts aren't exactly where you want or need them but where they could be drilled. Though the hardest move is protected fairly well. The second pitch is probably the mental crux with only 5 bolts in 200' of sustained 5.10 climbing with one 10+ move way above a bolt. This pitch might be tad longer than 200' so be ready to simul a small bit or bring a longer rope.

Pitch 4 shares some climbing with an unreported route, Quasimodo, established by Tom Carter back in the day. Really fun and exposed pitch. Pitch 5 holds the hardest technical bits and require solid footwork and mantling ability. The end of this pitch pulls a really cool roof that Fairest of All traverses underneath. This actually makes a much better exit for Fairest of All as it avoids the funky and long traverse out right. Hemispheres could also be exited this way.

Overall this is high quality and extremely engaging route on excellent rock. Classic Fairview Dome.

Possibly only repeated once by Bob Jensen and Sean Kriletich less than a week after the FA.

Location

Starts right of the big Plastic Exploding corner and left of Hemispheres.

Protection

Sparsely bolted.

2x Green C3 to .75 Camalot

1x Purple C3, #1, #2 Camalot

Numerous long slings