We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Broken Nose

FA Griff Griffith & JP Griffith, 9/3/16
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 (5.6, 90'). Start on the face just right of an obvious, left-leaning crack with a bush in it halfway up. Make your way across above this bush and up to the tree. There is not a lot of protection on the bottom half of this pitch.

P2 (5.5, 40'). Work your way up to another small tree above. Either stay on the nose proper or veer slightly right. Anchor off below a fairly obviou, mini-overhanging crack.

P3 (5.8, 90'). This is a wonderful, long pitch with some exciting moves. Move straight up staying on the nose of the feature pulling past a few hard bulges. Anchor off at the base of the headwall.

P4 (5.8, 60'). Climb directly up the headwall. Anchor off as the terrain eases.

Walkoff: head right and meet up with an overgrown gully. This gully is low angle and is surprisingly easy to navigate without any substantial bushwhacking. It is about a 30 minute descent. (Alternatively head right, but stay on the edge of the cliff. Descend down the steep gully meeting up with the talus slope at the start of the climb.)

Location

Left side of electric wall. Look for the obvious nose of this section. Head up the talus slope aiming for a section of rock about 200 yards right of the nose proper. Start here and aim just above a bush for the tree at the first belay station.

Protection

Standard rack. Walk off.


Routes in Electric Wall


  1. 1
    Broken Nose
    5.8
    Trad