The Rash

A D-town classic - bring your large nuts and some wires too! The Rash has two contrasting pitches, each with it's own form of spice. Neither is well suited for a 5.7 or 5.8 leader.

1. Layback the right-facing flake, which is steep and sustained for the 5.7 grade. The flake crack takes nuts and small cams but is parallel and flexy in places. About 50 feet up, the main flake peters out, so face climb up and right onto the pedestal. Place a cam under the overlap (options in the 1-2" range) and continue another 15' to the belay ledge. Take numerous small cams (tiny - 2") and some medium nuts to protect the flake.

2. The first 80 feet is the "Rash", a unique stairway of scoops and knobs. It is quite easy (low-fifth) and entertaining but entirely unprotected, with the first bolt about 70 feet above the belay! After you’ve clipped it and thanked your higher power of choice, move past a small cam placement, pad left past the technical crux (well protected 5.8) and another bolt to the belay. Before launching, check whether the upper Rash is wet!

Descend the route (or Luke on climbers left) via double rope rappels.

Historical note: Pitch one was originally part of “When Butterflies Kiss Bumblebees” and has replaced the original start.

The route is on the south aspect of Three O Clock Rock. Starting at the Eightmile trailhead (can’t miss the official FS sign), follow the standard trail approach to Three O Clock Rock. The trail starts on a bouldery abandoned road grade through small timber then old growth before popping out into an open talus slope with brush below the dome.

About 100 yards into the talus, find a climber's trail heading straight upward toward the crag, which is plainly visible (if you miss the turnoff, you’ll find yourself at the base of the North Buttress slab). Hike and boulder-hop up the crag and head left along its base, underneath the Great Arch.

As you wrap around the base, the trail gets steeper and scrambles up a small corner. From the high point, the flake system is visible. Belay on the sloping ramp where the route starts – preferably with a piece or two.

Gear: Medium rack to 2” (numerous cams ½ to 1½”) and quickdraws. Anchors and pro bolts are modern 3/8"