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Peak Mountain 3

Stemmy

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Description

Starts with some steep pulls but is pretty juggy most of the way.   A bit cruxy off the first bolt but there are several tricky spots in the first half of the route that wear you down for the fun and pumpy upper half.    You end up stemming quite a bit in what climbs like a very shallow corner.  This helps keep the grade down because the stems make great rests.   Really fun climbing.   Please be careful not to stem too far right as we didn't clean over there.

Location

As the wall curves around to the right, it becomes more west facing with morning shade and afternoon sun.   This route is at the right end of the cave and the left side of the west facing section.   Look for a low belay safety bolt a couple feet off the ground (with a hanger on it) at the base.

Protection

10? Stainless bolts, Chains with steel biners.  Must stick clip as it is hard off the start.   Best if your belayer is clipped into the base bolt so your system always has at least two bolts (given the big sloping drop off below the belay ledge).