Ye’ Ol’ Top Rope

A fun top rope route. Scramble far right up River Rock to the top of Head Case to find a pair of older but good condition anchors at the base of a boulder. Easy to set up anchors while sitting in a spot almost shaped like a bench complete with a spot to put your legs.

The route can start at the base of Head Case for a sturdy belay Or it can start inside the crack gulley and possibly even lower (would add ~20ft). We started at Head Case and immediately climbed up the boulders to the right toward a series of vertical cracks. Hang out on the corner of the face and slightly inside the cracks for solid holds or mix and match crack climbing to make it harder. Crux is after the first few steps above those boulders staring at a jug pointing away from you. After that it’s a combination of great foot holds, some hand cracks and jugs. Can climb all the way up to the shelf below the anchors or all the way up to the anchors. Easy clean and rappel. Beware of getting rope stuck in some of those cracks on the shelf to avoid a lot of back and forth.

This route appears as No. 13 on the hand drawn topo map image. It’s called “The old T.R. 5.8” It’s the furthest right most route on the River Rock directly next to Head Case. Look for two trees sticking out of the top of the cliff above Head Case’s anchor to get your bearings. The bolts for this are up top of the cliff and to the right of a small boulder (that could be used as a natural anchor) on top of the cliff. Requires unpleasant scrambling to get to but worth it.

Two older type ring bolts in good condition. No additional gear