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Peak Mountain 3

The Buck Stops Here (AKA "The Truman Motto")

FA Engle, Phinney, Archbold
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1: 5.11a Start on the lowest pt of Truman Tower in a 10' crack. Follow the crack to the face past a couple of bolts trending up and right around a corner to gain a major crack that diagonals back to the left. Follow this crack to a ledge, belay here.

Pitch 2: 5.10 From the belay ledge follow the vertical crack up past the bulge through a series of parallel vertical cracks to gain a weakness below the headwall, follow this weakness and crack system up and left past a set of anchors and 1 bolt to major horn in a schist band. (note that from the anchors the bolt is not visible, from the anchors follow the left crack up and left around the corner to gain a major ledge, follow the ledge up and left to a schist band and horn below the bolt line for pitch 3)

Pitch 3: 5.11b From the horn clip the bolt directly above and move out right. Follow the bolt line up and right to the top of the formation. Bring a #1 Camalot for between the 3rd and 4th bolt. Belay in a cove that separates the minor formations.

Pitch 4: 5.9 Traverse out left around the bulge to a vertical crack system, follow this up past a major horn, then follow the crack up and back to the right. Exit and go for the summit.

Location

Approach: park at the Emancipation/Inner Marker Pull-off, follow the trail that divides the two major formations for 250', then trend up right to the base of Truman Tower; (the major formation protruding from Emancipation, looker's left of White House Wall on the northwest side).

The route is on looker's right of Truman Tower

2 Rope Rappel Summit down to horn at belay station top of pitch 2. Horn to the ground.

Protection

10 Quickdraws, Camalots (2x #.4-#4), Set of Stoppers, Double-length slings, 2x 60m Ropes for rappel


Routes in Truman Tower


  1. 1
    The Buck Stops Here (AKA "The Truman Motto")
    5.11-
    Sport · Trad