- Edit (TBD)
Description
This great new variation to one of the most classic crack lines of the canyon adds a nice "sting in the tail" finish that maximizes the pump. Climb the standard
Blackline
to the point of the "5.7 traverse", instead of cutting right to either of the standard finishes (original 5.7 crack or direct 5.9 with the bolt) crimp directly up and slightly left over a small bulge and up parallel right-leaning seams. Sidepull and crimp your way up these to the crux last move right (look for a key mono) into the very top of the dihedral on the 5.9 finish and clip the chains. This makes for a great addition to this classic line, but the protection is not very straightforward. It would be a tricky onsight, and may be most enjoyable as a TR.
Location
The most direct (directest) line up to the chains on
Blackline
. Lies about 7' left of the
Direct Finish
(5.9).
Protection
With offset TCUs, this protects well, but it would be quite spicy without them. Bring a purple/blue Met. offset, black/blue and blue/green Alien offsets, RPs. A bomber #2 cam can be placed in the upper part of Blackline before pulling the small bulge.
Routes in Black Line Buttress
- 8Black Line - Directest Finish5.11aTrad