What's New Pussycat?

A two-pitch sport climb on crispy varnish features, with a slabby move thrown in here and there.

P1

Climb up to a bulging flake and clip the second bolt. Getting past the second bolt is the most difficult move of the pitch, but a little thought and balance will see it through. After the second bolt trend generally right using varnish knobs and features to the anchor.

P2

Didn't get to climb it, but the pitch starts up from the P1 anchor and trends left to an anchor on top and at the right of the overhang that is above and to your left while at the P1 anchor.

Get to this via the "second tier" ledge in the

Sand Dunes

area of the

Island in the Sky

formation.

At the top of the 3rd-class gully that leads to the second tier, head south (right). Pass two bulging buttresses on your left.

What's New Pussycat

is on the third buttress, just past a gully. There is a drilled pin route (

Stranger than Friction

) across the gully to the left of this bolted line.

Looking up the midpoint rappel anchor is obvious with its slings.

P1

9 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The guidebook says 8 bolts.

P2

8 bolts (according to the guidebook).