Malaysia

This multi-pitch moderate is a fun outing starting with a short granite wall, then onto slightly scruffy, very different rock. It has cleaned up considerably since the first ascent, and will only get better with more ascents. All cruxes are well protected, but there may be slight run-outs on easy terrain.

Approach: From the middle platform of Hansel's Hang-out, walk up-stream to the base of a short wall in the creek-bed - this is the approach pitch 5.5, 5 bolts. From the top, scramble left to the small ledge left of a chimney.

Pitch 1 : Start at the toe of the big red buttress.  The easiest way to access the start is by climbing the Approach Pitch from the stream bed.   First pitch is terrain for 20 feet to the first bolt, then continue up the face/arete to a large ledge with anchors. (5.8). 100'/7 bolts.

Pitch 2 : Climb up a ramp on the left, surmount a bulge, then continue up the featured face to a hueco with a crux bulge just below the anchors (5.8). 90'/9 bolts.

Pitch 3: Traverse left then up on the huecos and then continue on wandering fun slab with some interesting moves. (5.8) 115’/10 bolts.  Bring some long runners to mitigate rope drag on the traverse.

Pitch 4: Continue up the short featured granite to visit the “Pine Minister” of Malaysia. (5.6) 50’/6 draws.  Recommend the leader climb and lower back to the previous anchor to eliminate one rappel. Rap the route.

From the middle flat spot at Hansel's walk slightly up stream below a short wall. Scramble up and right around a bushy tree to gain the base of the steeper part of the wall. Start just below the obvious bolt in a small dihedral.

Bolts, Rappel from carabiner anchors