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Peak Mountain 3

Crack

FA Dan Hare, Tom Kohlmann?
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is an obvious line to the right of

Mind Mantel Arete

that draws the eye of those who seek routes to keep one climbing newer terrain. Interestingly, someone, perhaps Dan or Tom, got to it first and added an anchor for your convenience. Good crack technique makes this easier than 5.9.

The start involves a few moves with trickier gear placement as one spot is too tight for a #2 Camalot and the next tends to umbrella out a #0.75 Camalot. A key footjam or two can make the next section more secure. Some may complain that the #2 Camalot spot squeezes out a handjam, but you can do both. At the mini-roof, you have choices. Going left gets you a big ledge, but pro gets scarce for a bit. Face climbing more directly over the mini-roof appears less probable but is no harder. Forcing oneself right may be more awkward. Gain the next ledge. An okay #1 Camalot can be placed below the fractured plate. A yellow Alien helps protect the final bit to the two bolt anchor with links.

Location

This is to the right of

Mind Mantel Arete

and left of

High Plains Whimper

going up a right-leaning crack.

Protection

A rack that worked: #0.75, #3.5 (old size), #3, #2, tiny cam?, #1, yellow Alien, and a two bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.