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Peak Mountain 3

Smear Campaign

FA Stewart Green, Martha Morris, and Mike Heinrichs, Sept. 2004
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

From the guidebook: Excellent moderate route on the right side of the face. Begin by scrambling up to a 1-bolt anchor in a scoop below central wall. Traverse right on third class rock for 60 feet to a bolt at a small belay stance. Smear up the undulating slab above to a headwall. Work up right along a line of flakes to a hole with a large crystal-line xenolith ("strange rock"). Anchors are on a narrow shelf above.

Caution: The flake towards the top is loose.

Location

This route is the farthest right route on Wiggins' Wall. You can find it from the shady area by scrambling up the rock and traversing (approximately 60 feet) to the right, you'll see the belay bolt roughly 30-45 feet from the dirt line (bear in mind erosion may increase this distance). It's definitely decent 3rd class hiking to get there. The anchors when you look at the rock will be just to the left of the bushes that have a small outcropping below them.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (there is a belay bolt as well, and it's pretty high up and could be mistaken to the first bolt).