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Peak Mountain 3

Energy Crisis

FA Ed Webster, Doug Madara, Jeff Butterfield 81
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start 50' left of Whack-A-Mole (a.k.a. Sticks and Stones) or 15' left of the newly bolted line of Effigy, at a dirty headwall with left angling seams up the steepest tallest part of the lower buttress.

P1: Climb the headwall up seams (5.11a R) to the top of the steep wall and then diagonal right up an easier slab arete to a tree ledge. Belay on the left beneath the roofs. 5.11a R 100'

P2: Traverse left under the roof to a hand crack splitting the roof. Follow the cracks up the arete to the ballroom ledge. 5.9 50'

P3: Start on the right-hand end of the ballroom. Climb the crux past past two pitons (need to be replaced) and gain a hand crack in the bulge. Easier moves lead right across a slab to a thin crack and a sloping belay stance. 5.11b 45'

P4: Finish up the final finger crack on Solstice to the top. 5.8

Location

20' left of Effigy at the AP Treat Slab area

Protection

trad rack, poor pins