- Edit (TBD)
Description
When I did this shortly after Ed had put it in (now 20 years ago, in 1997) the fixed anchor was 2 pitons; I don't know if they have been replaced with something more permanent (ss bolts ?) but anyone climbing it should be prepared to maybe leave a back-up piece.
I don't remember the leading as 5.9, so maybe I led the 5.7 variation to the left and then TR'd the 5.9(?)
START: To the right of where the hiking trail makes a sharp left to swing around the cliff. Pretty much the "local" height-of-land.
The 5.7 Variation starts in a corner about 10 ft left of the main route, which starts in a depression formed by opposing corners. It then moves right to the main route.
Adirondack Rock indicates the ceiling on the main route is climbed "on the left". That guidebook also indicates there is a seldom-done, dirty 2nd pitch.
It's too bad that the variation can't go straight and connect with the top pitch of (Wiessner's) Std Route.
Protection
Std Rack