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Peak Mountain 3

Pandora

FA Kimber Almond and Tony Calvert July 1995
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

3 cruxes. Start in the easy, low angle crack, moving up the the initial vertical headwall for an awkward boulder problem with about 10 different variations on holds that never seem all that great (or are really huge, depending on what you found) At the top of the dihedral, move right to a great rest and get psyched for the next crux. The steep face above is why you came and sports long moves on enormous holds, with a full bag of sport climbing tricks that I didn't expect to use. The more creative you are, the easier it gets and powering through is far less fun. Crux 3 starts with the fist crack over left in a dihedral, clipping the final two bolts and pulling the lip to the chains.

Location

Just right of Medussa. Its initially hard to see the bolts on the headwall, but its all in there. Look to the white roof for the middle crux. Easy to scope this out and even get to the anchors from Medussa.

Protection

Probably 3 pieces are fine and only to protect the easy but runnout moves before each crux. I liked .4 or a .5, 1 and 3 camalots but you might want something slightly different. Loads of very long draws and runners - enough to cover the 10 bolts whatever gear you choose and the chains. It helps to have 2 or 3 super long runners to straighten the rope out.