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Peak Mountain 3

Hell Raiser

FA James Garrett and George Jamison, July 1995
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Starts in right-facing corner 50 feet right of

Till Hell Freezes Over

. Independent of its neighbor,

Hell Raiser

is more of an approach pitch to

Til Hell Freezes Over

. It climbs two pitches with its crux pitch coming in at .10b. Climb

Hell Raiser

as it's intended two pitches or use it as a variation to join the middle of

Til Hell Freezes Over's

second pitch.

P1

is protected by three or four bolts with mixed small placements in the corner crack on the left. P1 ends at a two bolt anchor on a nice ledge, The rest of the belay stations on this route are hanging. (5.8)

P2

follows eight bolts up a blunt arete. Fantastic climbing! (5.10b)

Stop here or continue via one bolt to join

Til Hell Freezes Over's

2nd pitch.

P3

traverses left past a bolt and then joins

Till Hell Freezes Over

. This intersection starts the 5.11a climbing. The route is a variation two and a half pitch start to

Till Hell Freezes Over

(5.11a/b). -The grade 5.10b applies only to the first part of the route.

P4

is a slab protected entirely by bolts, 125 feet (5.10b).

P5

is a choss pile protected by bolts and small pro up to .75" cams. Some route finding necessary. The final anchors are above the ledge land-marked by a pine tree. (5.9)

Helmets are a must. Jackets recommended if the temps are below 60 Deg. F. A 60m rope is insufficient for the first rappel. A walk off is optional and recommended if there other climbers in the sector.

Location

There is a fixed pin at eye level at the start. 50 feet to the right of

Till Hell Freezes Over

. P1 is the black slab with the obvious dihedral on the left.

Protection

The first pitch consists of three or four bolts mixed with small placements in the corner crack on the left. TCU's or C3's useful. Bring lots of draws or extendables. The last pitch has several bolts and takes intermediate placements up to .75" cams.