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Peak Mountain 3

Doors of Stone

FA Samuel Johnson & Ian Colegrove, July 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

First, climb the first two pitches of The Way of Water: P1 - 5.8 - Climb out of a cruxy little notch off the ground past some hanging alders, then follow intermittent cracks up intermittently steep and low angle ground to a 2 bolt belay. 70m. P2 - 4th class - Climb up easy ground past spaced gear to a single bolt transition anchor. 45m.Where The Way of Water trends right from here to a blunt, low angle arete, Doors of Stone walks left from here to access a low angle moderate crack system for three pitches to access the base of the final headwall:P3 - 5.2 - Walk up and left across the polished slab to access a low angle crack system. Climb moderate ground past spaced gear to a 2 bolt belay on a grassy ledge. 70m. P4 - 5.3 - Continue up in the vicinity of the moderate widening crack past spaced gear to a two bolt belay. 60m.P5 - 3rd class - Continue up the crack feature and across a large grassy ledge past a boulder to a single bolt transition anchor with rap ring at the base of a steeper black headwall. 40m. P6 - 5.8+ PG13 - Climb a gorgeous steep crack with big bulbous feet until it peters out. Look for multiple small cam placements at head height and then pull several airy steeper face moves to pass the bulge. Continue up positive holds and then run it out up immaculate easy slab climbing to a two bolt belay. 60m.Walk up nice low angle rock to the boulder filled meadow at the top of the feature, or rappel from here. 

Protection

Trad pro, bolted anchors with rap rings.


Routes in Apron Wall


  1. 1
    Doors of Stone
    5.8+
    Alpine · Trad