Hot Beach

AKA "Hot Bitch on a Beach" for the non-PC, this is an excellent route and undoubtedly a Shelf classic! The guidebook grade above is fairly consistent with other routes graded in the Cactus Cliff Decimal System. However, word has it that it's a good bit easier than the neighboring "

Tits Up

", also graded 12b. (Note that these two climbs are reversed in the beta photo.)

Start right of

Tits Up

and left of

Wadsworth Boulevard

, at the right side of the wall. Climb a short arete to a small roof and continue up the slightly overhanging wall to the anchors. The route is characterized by sustained climbing that doesn't let up until the anchors. There really didn't seem to be a distinct crux... more like 5-6 11/11+ cruxes, separated by decent stances where you can get a good shake.

11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.